Wurstelstands I have known and loved

My first experience with getting bratwurst from a stand was in Salzburg many years ago.  The wurst was grilled and heaped with a very tasty sauerkraut onto a steamed bun.  It was messy and yummy and the encounter is burned into my memory as many a 3star meal is not.  In Vienna the wurst is not served with sauerkraut, but there are Wurstelstands all over.  You can get the wurst either served cut up on a plate or you can ask for a 'hot dog' wurst to get it in a bun.   They have a spike they use to drill a hole in a bun (like a mini italian loaf) put mustard and ketchup into it and then insert the grilled wurst. It is pretty yummy.

 

We went to several different stands and I am going to list my fav's:

1) Mariahilferstrasse right by the Zieglergasse U-bahn stop.  The wurst was nicely spiced and juicy.

2) The stands at Albertinaplatz and Hoermarkt are next.  I thought the one at Albertinaplatz was a bit juicier, but they really rank very close.

3) Naschmarkt right by the Secession.  It's only open in the evening but a nice late night nasch.

Do NOT go to one on Stephansplatz.  Our last day we stopped at a stand there desperately wanting one last wurst.  Alan said it was better than nothing.  NO!  It was dry and only made me want the real thing even more.  

 

Days in Vienna: Wagner: one last thing

Days in Vienna: Wagner: one last thing: "Many mornings I would pass this lovely cafe that stood right by the stairs either on my way out or back from a walk along the Donaukanal. ..."

Wagner and Postparkasse

Later in our visit we went to see the PostParkasse, the Post Office Savings Bank he designed in 1906 is still operating as a bank.  Here we can see the change towards functionality.  The facade is made of marble slabs that are riveted on with aluminum bolts over the brick structure.  He left the bolt heads visible.  

The interior is very expansive and filled with light due to an arched glass roof and a floor covered with glass blocks. 

 

The marriage of functionality and design becomes evident by the way the heating system was incorporated and enhances the interior

Heating system

Wagner, No not the Composer, the Architect

Have I mentioned that I love Art Deco architecture? Maybe growing up in Syracuse where the glorious Niagara Mohawk Power Building with its Spirit of Light is located was formative.  Anyway, serve me up some Art Deco along with my Art Nouveau and you have a very happy camper.  And that is exactly what Otto Wagner does.

Otto Wagner was a widely esteemed architect who pioneered mixing functionality and the use of modern materials.  Two of his pupils, Josef Hoffmann and Joseph Maria Obricht  were founding members of the the Vienna Secession which he also joined.  He evidently did an entire redesign of Vienna but his urban rail network was the only component adopted.   Today the U-bahn lines 4 & 6 and the S-bahn use the same lines.  Several buildings were designed in the Jugendstil mode, but as he leaned more towards functionality he transitioned into a style that is more reminiscent of Art Deco.

When we were doing a walking tour of the 6th district we exited the subway and a row of lovely houses caught my eye.  I snapped several photos and later realized that one of them was an Wagner house with a lovely tile front.  Along the sides are balconies which don't show up as well.   Very Jugendstil. 

Majolikahaus 1898, Mariahilfer district (6th)

On another day we went to Karlsplatz where 2 of his original rail stations still stand.  They stand facing each other not far from the current U-bahn station.  One is now a museum and the other is a cafe. 

Karlsplatz Cafe

 

Disclaimer 2

We have returned home, but I am going to continue blogging about our experiences for a bit.  The advantage is that now the pictures will be 'authentic'!

Meeting Up With Friends Part 2: Lori & Lisa

Since we had a second bedroom, we tossed out an invitation to our dear friends Lori & Lisa to visit us for a few days.  As it turned out, Lisa had a training session to run in England at the time of our trip.  After visiting friends in England they took a quick hop on a plane and viola, arrived in Vienna and spent a few days with us.  Alan ran an 'orientation' tour the first day and then they had fun exploring Vienna on their own.  They even used the community bike system.  You sign a bike out and return it within an hour and there is no charge.  So by using the right sequence they used the system to travel about all day and not pay anything.
In the evening we had great fun drinking good beer and eating some good authentic Austrian cuisine.  We were able to revisit some of the place we had really enjoyed including Schweizerhaus, (see 'Eating pig like pigs').
I should mention that Lisa speaks German (she spent a year as an exchange student), so we made great use of her as translator during the time she was there.  Thanks Lisa!

Lori and Lisa

One Pork Shank - we ate 2!

Jugendstil Schmuck at the Leopold Museum

I love that the German word for jewelry is schmuck.  In English a schmuck is someone who's stupid, obnoxious, a jerk.  The English meaning comes from Yiddish (if you want a real surprise look up what the real Yiddish definition meant), while the German comes from low German.  It doesn't matter, it's a great word to say.

At the Leopold Museum we saw an exhibit on Jugendstil Schmuck (or Art Nouveau jewelry) in Europe.  Some pieces were done in metal and semi-precious jewels, others featured colorful enamel.  It was a feast for the eyes and a very easily digestible exhibit which really showed the vast range of artistic talent involved in this movement.

Joseph Hoffmann Brooch 1905

Rene Lalique enameled brooch

Kirchgaessner & Kraft, Pforzheim, belt buckle, ca. 1903-1905